Known as 'The White City', Ostuni builds itself like a prettily stacked wedding cake. All tiny, white-washed houses and slippery cobbled alleyways, it's the architecture here that makes The Luxury Travel Bible sigh with delight. Climb up through to the old quarter, 'Centro Storico', which forms the citadel and gaze out across olive green valleys to the blue of the Adriatic Sea. Don't come here expecting a bounty of art and museums - head further down the heel of the boot to Lecce, 'The Florence of the South' for that. And don't come during July and August when the population of 31,000 triples to 100,000 with tourists. Instead, just come and enjoy imbibing simple food and pleasures within a town that during the 1500s was a haven for humanists and libertines.