Set on the edge of the oldest part of the Medina, Vanessa Branson has channelled a tamer version of her brother Richard's implacable entrepreneurial skills and creativity to produce Ryad El Fenn. Rather than showstopper sexy, this riad's appeal rests on sophisticated Moroccan elegance amplified with a smattering of western vintage designer comfort. Each of the 21 rooms and suites have been individually conceived with colours that range from washes of neutrals to muted jewel, unique pieces of furniture and baths that are either claw foot, moulded or sunken into the floor. There are two small pools to float in. For the more energetically inclined, power jets allow you to swim imaginary laps against their current. A hammam and spa offer beauty therapists and massage. And, on occasion, the relaxed holiday mode is ramped up with evenings of entertainment, by local and international stars.